When the Criterion closed there was a tear shed by many a 90s swinger, and when MPW handed it to young hotshot Calum Watson many breaths were held; and then let out in a sigh of relief at the results because Frankie's at the Criterion is positively awash with charming waiters and comforting food.
Watson, as executive chef, has been instrumental in the roll-out of the burgeoning chain and the Crieterion, with over 200 covers, was a real test of his metle, which he passed with flying colours. The restaurant, like the others, offers good food in an over-the-top glam environment with impeccable service.
Choose from fish, meat, pizzas, pastas; all the things you'd expect from an Italian menu - and then be impressed with the gentle touch Watson has used on everything, there's no overpowering flavours of burnt garlic and regenerated food here, like so many dodgy Italians, everything is as fresh as a daisy and deftly done.
For a good night out that won't tax the brain or the wallet Frankie's is a total winner.